Patrick Levitzke is from Port Macquarie, Australia. He left in 2019 to begin yachting, and found his first job on a private 82-foot Horizon, cruising the U.S. East Coast, with just the captain. Currently, he’s a deckhand on a 210-foot private yacht and has plans to complete his 200-ton license this year.
Bring your worn deck back to life—refresh your recaulk skills with this step-by-step guide.
Teak-caulking repair is a staple task for yacht maintenance, often a one-day job when addressing multiple areas. Properly laying new caulking not only maintains the aesthetic appeal of teak decking but also ensures its watertight integrity. This job doesn't always have to wait for the yard, allowing crew members to take initiative.
1. Before starting, check the weather forecast for at least 48 hours. If you’re rain-free during that window, you’re good to go!
2. Mark the areas in need of attention with tape. Look for damaged or missing caulking, water seepage, and caulking pulling away from the plank. If caulking is “sitting proud” (raised above the teak), it may not need replacing—just a simple blading back will suffice. This task is ideal for less experienced crew members (greenies).
3. Begin by removing the damaged caulking. Take care when removing old caulking and use plastic scrapers along with alcohol or adhesive remover. Only use metal blades if they’re absolutely needed, as they are especially unforgiving on paint. If you need to remove caulk from deep grooves, a reefing tool may be necessary. A reefing hook should suffice, though a Stanley knife can also be useful—just be cautious not to damage the surrounding wood. Remove as much of the old caulking as possible.
4. Ideally, sand the seams for better adhesion and to eliminate any stubborn remnants of the old caulking. A teak decking seam sander, which is relatively inexpensive, will do the trick with a few passes using 40-grit sandpaper.
5. Once the old caulking is removed, use compressed air to clear away debris, dust, and residual moisture. Use a narrow gun attachment and short bursts, blasting along the seam rather than directly in. Be cautious, as compressed air can splinter the wood. A vacuum cleaner, brush, and a teak-friendly solvent (like alcohol) also work well for cleaning.
6. Similar to varnishing, tape the edges of where you want the caulk to end with masking tape, or if working with a lot of curves and corners, flexible electrical tape can work even better. Take your time with taping and tape the edges as close to the teak as possible, applying tape to both sides of the seams and at either end, leaving a small gap for the new caulking material. It’s best to make caulking a one-day job — or at least a section at a time — as leaving tape overnight can lift slightly due to the temperature change and moisture.
7. Next, if you’re laying the new bead in direct sunlight, work as quickly as you can (as it will set or “skin over” much faster) and pull the tape as soon as possible. You’ll need your caulk, caulking gun, rags, and a mixture of water and dish soap to swipe the bead after you’ve laid it.
8. Cut the applicator nozzle at a 45-degree angle so it's oval, then apply the caulking material into the seam, ensuring it fills the entire depth. The size of the hole should be slightly smaller than the seam you’re caulking into. Apply steady pressure to the caulking gun for a consistent bead. More often, it can actually be better to “push” the caulking gun along the seam rather than pull so there’s a small ball of caulk in front of the gun. The pace of you pushing the caulking out of the tube and the speed at which you lay is the true art of this whole endeavor. Have gloves, alcohol, and rags on hand—things may get messy!
9. To smooth the caulking, you can use specialized smoothing tools, a plastic spatula, or even the edge of a freshly sliced potato (though this method is untested by the author!). It’s acceptable if the new caulking is slightly higher than the surrounding teak after smoothing; you can blade it off once it’s cured—just don’t press too hard and depress it below the surrounding surface.
10. After smoothing the caulking, immediately pull off the tape from both sides to create clean, crisp edges. Be mindful of your surroundings—keep a trash can nearby and avoid stepping in the fresh caulking! Curing time depends on the manufacturer, typically ranging from 24 to 48 hours. Inform the crew about the wet caulking and its location, and then tools down!
As the season transitions and boats move to warmer waters, many will be addressing caulking as part of their shipyard routine. From windows to decking, caulking is crucial for waterproofing and weatherproofing your vessel. Pay attention to detail while working, as flawless caulking is essential for maintaining the beauty and integrity of your yacht. Whether it’s a 10-year refit or quick repairs, mastering caulking will ensure your vessel remains in top condition.